Base yourself in Haines Junction
Haines Junction is a village of 800 at the park's east edge, 90 minutes from Whitehorse. Stay at the Alcan Motor Inn or Raven Hotel ($140–200). Village Bakery has wood-fired pizza and coffee, opens 7am. The Da Kų Cultural Centre is your first stop — combined Champagne and Aishihik First Nations centre and Parks Canada visitor info, free. Register there for any backcountry plans. You cannot see Kluane from Haines Junction — the front range blocks the view — but everything starts here.
Day-by-day
Day 1: Auriol Loop hike (15 km, 5 hours) for a full-day intro to the front range. Dinner in Haines Junction. Day 2: Drive south to Kathleen Lake, do King's Throne (10 km, 6 hours, 1,200 m elevation) — the definitive Kluane hike. Cold beer at the boat launch. Day 3: Splurge on a flightseeing tour with Icefield Discovery or Rocking Star Adventures — $400 for 90 minutes over Mount Logan and the Kaskawulsh Glacier. Nothing on Earth looks like this. Drive back to Whitehorse in the evening.
The alternative — a real backcountry trip
If you have 5 days and experience, the Slims River / Observation Mountain route lets you walk to the toe of the Kaskawulsh Glacier — though the river shifted in 2016 (called river piracy, geologically famous), so check with Parks Canada. The Cottonwood Trail is a 3-day loop with river fords, moderate skill required. Do not attempt anything backcountry without registering, bear canisters (rented at Da Kų, $10), and honest self-assessment. This park does not have search infrastructure like Banff does.
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